It used to be that you could return to Paris after an extended absence and find that almost nothing had changed. Mais plus maintenant. While things here may not be evolving as feverishly as in New York or London, the pace is certainly picking up. New neighborhoods are blooming where you’d least expect. Creative young chefs are shaking up the famously rigid restaurant scene. This year alone, the hotel-scape has seen a flurry of openings and restorations. The French capital feels more dynamic than ever, and though you can probably still have your grandmother’s favorite macarons, we thought we’d bring you up to speed on what’s new—arrondissement by arrondissement.